I popped over on Friday to take some pics for a locals supplement guide and catch up with Paul. He was busy trying Houdini Direct 7c+, and making good progress. I headed to the far left of the crag to take a few pics and warm up. I did a usual circuit of problems, the went and did the Sheriff 7b+ and took some pics. I was nicely warmed up and conditions were excellent, so I thought I'd try my nemesis, Jack's Arete 7c. I'd made it to the last move a few times in the past, but can never move. However, for some reason I could move my knee and it slipped from under the roof onto the side of the arête. This made all the difference and I could move from there. I dropped the top, more from the shock of doing the move before I think. I quickly sussed out how to do the move again and it went next go. Super psyched to do this, as it is everything in bouldering I'm bad at. A good power problem, even it is only 2/3 moves.
Walking smugly back to Paul, he gave me all the beta on Houdini Direct. This is another problem I had written off. I had come back to it a number of times, but one move had seemed total impossible and I'd never even got close. Paul's new beta seemed much more doable, and I did the move first try. Totally psyched now for the problem, as I've done all the moves and actually had done it in 2 sections. Just before the rain came Paul sent the problem in style, which was fitting as he had put a good few sessions in working it.
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| First Crux done, just the set up and second crux to go |
I stopped in on Sunday to have another quick go and managed to do all the moves again, as well as in 2 sections. I kept dropping the problem on the second crux to the lip. This is desperate for me, as I'm in my weakest position (horizontal) and it's a full on pop cutting loose. I'm hoping that the cold I keep trying to fight off is the cause of my lameness, but fear it's probably a bit of both. On a positive note. It's 5 mins from home and it will go soon!!
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