Tuesday, 23 December 2014

Bits of Bouldering

As Xmas and my first bit of winter work in Jan approaches, I have been filling what spare time I have with a bit of local bouldering.  With only the odd hour or so here and there, Woodhouse has been the saving grace again.

I popped over on Friday to take some pics for a locals supplement guide and catch up with Paul.  He was busy trying Houdini Direct 7c+, and making good progress.  I headed to the far left of the crag to take a few pics and warm up.  I did a usual circuit of problems, the went and did the Sheriff 7b+ and took some pics.  I was nicely warmed up and conditions were excellent, so I thought I'd try my nemesis, Jack's Arete 7c.  I'd made it to the last move a few times in the past, but can never move.  However, for some reason I could move my knee and it slipped from under the roof onto the side of the arĂȘte.  This made all the difference and I could move from there.  I dropped the top, more from the shock of doing the move before I think.  I quickly sussed out how to do the move again and it went next go.  Super psyched to do this, as it is everything in bouldering I'm bad at.  A good power problem, even it is only 2/3 moves.

Walking smugly back to Paul, he gave me all the beta on Houdini Direct.  This is another problem I had written off.  I had come back to it a number of times, but one move had seemed total impossible and I'd never even got close.  Paul's new beta seemed much more doable, and I did the move first try.  Totally psyched now for the problem, as I've done all the moves and actually had done it in 2 sections.  Just before the rain came Paul sent the problem in style, which was fitting as he had put a good few sessions in working it.

First Crux done, just the set up and second crux to go

I stopped in on Sunday to have another quick go and managed to do all the moves again, as well as in 2 sections.  I kept dropping the problem on the second crux to the lip.  This is desperate for me, as I'm in my weakest position (horizontal) and it's a full on pop cutting loose.  I'm hoping that the cold I keep trying to fight off is the cause of my lameness, but fear it's probably a bit of both.  On a positive note.  It's 5 mins from home and it will go soon!!

Monday, 15 December 2014

CWA Training

Over the weekend I ran a CWA Training course for a bunch of staff from Climb Rochdale and students from Bolton Boy School.  It was a great mix of experience and made for a good training course.  Having worked with the Bolton School bunch a bit over the last year or so, it's really nice to see them coming through into the awards as well.

We split the course across 2 venues, Climb Rochdale and Rokt.  This gave 2 very different venues, which really added to the course.

Wednesday, 10 December 2014

Catchimg Up

I've been a little slack lately, so here's a quick catch up.

At the End of November I did a couple of day paddling work with Bolton School.  I had not been in a boat for almost 9 years, but it strangely felt like it had been yesterday.  We did a good couple of moving water seasons on the Lune and the Dee, which everyone showed great progression on.

Bouncy fun on the Dee
Climbing has been a bit stop start with the weather and work.  I've been ticking over with the usual route setting and a couple of indoor sessions (weather must be bad).  Ben and I grabbed a good session at the Roost on the 1st December, where we climbed a number of the E4's to warm up before I climbed and cleaned a rather dirty Fascination Street E7 6c***.  I had one go on a rope, and climbed the route in two, as I struggled to recover at a poor shakeout.  I was a bit disappointed with this, but it turns out I felt tired and weak due to a chest infection.  BOO!

Recovering from illness and running a CWA Assessment with a bit more setting thrown in takes us up to date.  The snow up North is causing a bit of FOMO!  But it is hard to find the time these days for a quick hit and partners that match.

I will be up in the Fort at the start of Jan for my first batch of winter work.  As usual I will be splitting the season between Scotland and Yorkshire.  There is still 1 week available in March 16th-20th if anyone is looking for a weeks climbing.