Friday, 20 December 2013

Work and Play

A busy week or so again with route setting, staff training a bit of bouldering thrown in.  I managed to escape Calderdale and get to Almscliff with Rose in tow.  Conditions were not great and Rose not having her best day, meant a slightly less productive day than hoped for.  I did manage to tick Underhand font 7b+, but failed on all other tricky objectives.    A batch of problems I had not done before got sent, so not a total loss.

Today I had a quick hit to the ever faithful Woodhouse and managed a few new links etc.  Interfacing Angel Reverse font 7c, Interface Boulder Problem Hell Start font 7b+ and Angel's Crossing Super Extention font 7c.  Probably only of interest to the usual Woodhouse faithful,  but some good additions to the face for when not much else is in.

Tuesday, 17 December 2013


The kind folks at Hotaches sent me over a copy of their new film Distilled. This film follows Andy Cave around the Ben whilst he chats about how he started climbing and where it's taken him. Over the years, Hotaches have produced a number of quality films, with the best having an almost documentary feel about them. After all, that's how they kicked off with E11. The footage is excellent and is keeps you visually entertained as Andy chats away. That's not to say that Andy is not worth listening to. For all those interested in the lives of our top alpinists and climbers. but bored of the usual 'sent that shit Man!!!' climbing film, this is the one for you.
'Distilled' Trailer from Hot Aches Productions on Vimeo.

Tuesday, 10 December 2013

Busy Extended Weekend

A busy few days started on Friday with some setting at Rochdale and updating some of their training and paperwork.

Over the weekend I ran an SPA Training in the Peak and somehow managed to stay dry.  It was a small course, but the guys made it a really good weekend with lots of good questions and discussions.

Yesterday wrapped up a busy few days with a mammoth setting stint at Rochdale.  A small but efficient team stripped the whole upstairs and re set 100 problems ready for their Tri Boulder Comp tonight.  We then climbed all the problems, which left everyone feeling pretty tired.  I definitely feel like I had the ultimate training session.

Hopefully it will be a quiet week, with a little climbing in there somewhere.

Wednesday, 4 December 2013

Scout Hut Crag

I made a visit to Scout Hut Crag today, which is another local venue I have failed to visit in the past.  My previous laziness to find these venues is now paying off on the days I only have mornings free.

The crag is quite course and has no polish, which was a real treat So I went on an onsighting mission.  I started off soloing a few of the easier routes like Moon Dance HVS 5a*, Coppice Moon HVS 5c* before stepping up to Arenaceous E2 5c, Loogabarooga E3 6a*** , Slippery People E2 6b* and High Noon E3 5c.  Now fully warmed up I made quick onsight solos of Needle of Dreams E4 6b*** and Strone Road E4 6b*, both great routes/highballs.

Setting up for the crux on Needle of Dreams

slopey holds on Strone Road
I then turn my attention to some of the boulder problems, ticking off all I did onsight as well.  The best ticks being The Golden Fleece font 7a*** and Hanging Block Traverse font 7a+.  a really good 2 hours spent.

Just approaching the end of Hanging Block Traverse

scout hut solos from Adam Hughes on Vimeo.

Tuesday, 3 December 2013

Catch Up and New Bouldering Venue, Hopefully!

It has been a busy week or so.  On Friday I was down in Sheffield visiting friends and snook out to Higgar Tor for a quick boulder and solo around.  I had a great few hours onsighting the Rasp E2 5b*** and repeating Witness the Gritness font 7a+, before moving over to look at Shit font 7b+.  Here I managed to tick most of the easier problems, the best being anonsight of Quintessential Higgarisms font 7a and quickly sending Hemline font 7a+.  I dropped the second last ove of Shit too many times, and ran out of steam.  One to come back to.  The morning was ruined by the fact that some **** had smashed 2 of my car windows for nothing.  A home made hat and old belay jacket out the boot.

Over the weekend I ran a CWA Training course based out of ROKT and The Leeds Wall.  A large course with 10 candidates meant a lot of info sharing and discussion.  This helped make it a great weekend.

Yesterday Ed and made another visit to our new find.  Ed has a sore ankle, so I quickly cleaned and sent 10 more problems.  It is looking like it could be a nice little venue with lots of problems in the low 6's.
A nice font 6b/+ problem at the first area cleaned

The last area cleaned

Good problems of mixed length

A good font 5/+ arete

Video showing a collection of problems so far.