Tuesday, 26 November 2013

A New Venue in Calderdale?

ZI've spent a couple mornings and afternoon out with Ed and our kids looking at random bit of rock that don't amount to much.  This time however, there seems enough to warrant exploding the climbing.

We had an hour or so yesterday cleaning and climbing a couple of the problems,  but the best was a bit to high and steep to reach.  So we returned again this morning equipped to reach the awkward spots.

A nice slab at font 6a/+ and an Arete to the right at font 4.  The main attraction at this spot is the leaning pinnacle with aretes either side and cool groove feature upnthe middle.  The Left Arete and groove give a great problem,  Toddler Taming font 6b/+ ish, with the Right Arete giving Rose's Arete 6a/+. Around the other side of this Arete is a cool problem which uses the left and right aretes to climb the wall at font 5+.

There are a lot more small buttresses to clean up with some good looking lines on, so hopefully enough to draw people to visit.  I don't imagine that there will be anything too hard, with the bulk of the problems coming in, in the mid 6's.  Watch this space.

Sunday, 24 November 2013

Boldness Through Ignorance

Friday was cold and dry, so I took a walk into Cow's Mouth Quarry to give the shoulder a run out, and maybe have a quick look at Boldness Through Ignorance E8 6c** (since it lost its peg).  The shoulder was feeling ok as I warmed up on some easy routes , then a quick nip up Daytona Wall E5 6a***.  I had never done the direct, so threw my pad down and got stuck in.  A tricky bouldery start takes you into the normal route at it's crux.  This is then finished straight up by a 6b crux, to give a more sustained route of E5/6 6b***.

I then turned my attention to Boldness and abseiled to brush checking it out as I went.  Feeling brave, I went for the flash, dropping it at bulge on the monos.  Not wanting to take a big fall again, I dropped a rope down and quickly worked the tricky section.  After a good rest, I soloed the route.  The hard moves right at the top felt pretty good, but intense.  Psyched to get the ticked, but will need to go back and get some pics.

Wednesday, 20 November 2013

Busy Busy

The last week or so has been pretty busy, and the computer packing up has not helped the admin side.  I ran a navigation/GPS course last Tuesday in the Calder valley which work3d very well. Short walks bringing us back to base to do the data input side of things, meant we could make tweaks here and there.

On Thursday I was at Climb Rochdale setting for the BMC leading ladder.  A busy day, but a good range of routes set by the team, and a mixof styles too.

Saturday was the start of an SPA Assessment.  However, I woke at 5:30, so decided to head to the Peak early and grab a route.  The intended target of Green Death was wet again, so I opted for the flash of Great Arete E5 5c***.  After a quick ab inspection and feel of the crux holds, I soloed the route.  A terrifying start, but soon really enjoyable climbing.  The weekend assessment went well, with the weather working out well for each days emphasis.   A solid performance by many, meant 7 of 8 passed.

A slight shoulder strain has meant I have been keepi g busy trying to catch up on admin as well as a couple of meetings. Fingers crossed I can make up for it next week.

Monday, 11 November 2013

SPA Training

Over the weekend I ran an SPA Training I in the peak district. We had the best of the weather on Saturday at Stanage for the personal climbing section of the award before heading to the wall to cover the indoor aspect of the syllabus.   All the candidates demonstrated a solid climbing performance leading outside on routes up to HVS 5b and inside to 6b.

On Sunday we visited both lawrancefield and Millstone for the group section of the syllabus.   The two venues highlight so good working difference at SPA venues.

A good course made by strong candidates.

Thursday, 7 November 2013

Visitors to Calderdale

Jono sending Radium Arete V3

Today Dan and Jono made a trip over to Woodhouse to see what I've been harping on about.  Hopefully they have not been disappointed.

I got there a bit earlier and warmed up to try and tick Mango 7c**.  I had drop the problem on the last move on Monday, so was hoping to get it sent quick.  Instead I was frustrated with one move in the crack that I thought I had sorted.  Rather than use up all my energy, I moved on when Dan and Jono arrived.

Keep rocking

They got stuck into some nice problems on Cave buttress to warm up, both sending well.  Ed and Phoebe made a cameo for a quick hit, but had to bail.  We then moved to the far end of the crag and Dan flashed Interface Boulder problem start V7/font 7a+ and Jono sent it soon after.  I showed the way on a couple of the other trickier problems, but skin and strength were a little to thin after what had been climbed so far.  So we moved back along the crag sending easy classics.  Dan put in some good moves to flash Piton Crack V5/font 6c.  Then we warmed down on more easy classics.

Dan on Piton Crack

A great session with problems from V2/font 5 to V8/9/font 7b+, which I think everyone enjoyed