Friday, 31 May 2013

A Mixed Week

This week has had a few frustrations, but seems to be ending quite well.  I started the week off pulling a muscle in back moving a wardrobe (Again!!!), Getting baby germs of Rose and generally being run down by hayfever.  All in all, the makings of a good week.

I was feeling slightly better by Wednesday, but my back was still not 100%, so I opted to go and start cleaning a route of Jordan Buys to do the second ascent.  It was massively minging, so I was not totally clear on which way to go.  So, another trip up at least to finish the cleaning mission.  It looks good though, and I flashed through the top section whilst belaying myself, so hopefully the crux lower section will be ok oncw I clean it.

Today my back was feeling a little better, and I had a few hours free early this morning.  I took advantage of this and the cooler start to the day, by heading to Woodhouse.  After warming up, I did Angel Face and Angel Face Eliminate, both 7b+ first go having not done them for a while.  i then turned my attention to adding an alternative start to Angel's Crossing Extension and Weeping Angel.  The Start is for those that don't have the shoulders for the Eliminate start.  It Starts up Angel Arete to join the problems in the slot.  It does add a couple more moves, and in my opinion, makes a slightly trickier start to the problems.  This said the Grade for Angel's Crossing Arete Start is font 7b+ and Weeping Angel Arete Start 7c still.  Definitely filler in problems, but quite nice ways to do them, especially if you don't like the pressy start.

Friday, 24 May 2013

Brownstones Action

After checking the weather and taking in to account child friendly venues, the Brownstones on out.  Tying in driving with nap times worked a treat, and it meant that Elliot and I could get a decent amount done in between Rose watch.  This is a great venue for easy problems upwards, with a good collection of font 7's.

After a few easy problems to warm up, I was pretty happy to onsight PP font 7a+, which is an eliminate based around Pigswill.  Elliot then had a few goes before sending it too.  We did a few more easier problems, got shut down on something a little trickier, before doing Unpinched font 7a+.. Another good eliminate.  I did Big Muff font 7a+ after many goes.  It all came down to a minor hand adjustment, then boom! Sent.  I finished off on sighting Rusty Wall font 6c+, a tricky little number that suits those who love to crimp.

A good day on dry rock, made better by the fact it was lashing down at home.

Thursday, 23 May 2013

Mytholm Bouldering

After being ditched by Ben, as his ankle is still swollen and Elliot's timings don't match with mine. I ended up going for a boulder to Mytholm Steeps. The edge has some quite tricky problems and the quarry some new prospects. I went around on to the edge first and warmed up on The Wickerman font 6c**+, and the had a look at Not for Weasels font 7b+**. Although not my style, I was hoping to made some progress. Instead I got spanked!

Hard heel pull on Ghost Rider
Crux pull of Tony's Wall

I ditched it and moved on to Ghost Rider font 7a+**. This seemed nail when I last tried it a couple of years ago. It went first go today, Psyched! I then spent around an hour falling off the same move of the super steep wall of Tony's Wall font 7b+**. Finally, I worked out how to how the swing and sent the problem. Not before my skin was starting to feel pretty sore. It had started to hailstone, so I walked back to the car. The quarry was still dry, so I added a sit start to Local Interest Only to make a nice font 7b*. It is a good way to stop you doing a french start to the original. The new project I'm looking at was a bit wet, so will have to wait.

Above & below: Local Interest SS

Monday, 20 May 2013

Weekend Work and Houdini Sendage!

On Friday I met up with Adi Gill and a bunch of other folks for the New Guide photo shoot for Woodhouse.  Whilst there I got on Houdini V9 6c**.  The end has always been the problem, with that being a hard 6c move.  Dave Sutcliffe found a different way to what I had seen before, but my legs are still to long to do the short man version.  I found a way to mix the 2 methods up and final did the stand start.  The roof section went in 30 mins, but I dropped the end twice and ran out of steam.

Sunday took me to the Peak to work for James Thacker Mountaineering with the Not So Trad Climbing Club.  I was pretty early, so managed to sneak in a couple of cheaky solos at Millstone.  Bond Street HVS 5a and Great Portland Street HVS 5b*** where both excellent, but left me with a quick run back to the car to meet the group in the village.  A stunning day for their lead coaching meant everyone sent loads of routes.  Kirtsy and Agnes had taken on loads from Matt on the Saturday, and converted it into quality product.

Agnes and Kirsty styling up Black Hawk Traverse

Today I went back to Woodhouse to finish off Houdini.  A couple of the holds were damp, but manageable. 
After refining a few parts of my sequence, I was psyched to send the problem.  The hardest part is not sitting down at the end.  The big bonus about having sorted the end, is three other problem share that finish.

Thursday, 9 May 2013

Catch Up

The last week or so has been a bit hectic, but surprisingly productive.  A lack of internet has meant blogging has not been easy, so here's a catch up.  After putting in a day on Subculture 8a**, I returned to try and redpoint it.  Unfortunately, I was a little under the weather, and it all felt like a little hard work.  It was not a wasted day though, and I managed to lead the route in 2 sections, improving my sequence a little.

I squeezed in an hour at Woodhouse Scar and added a sit start to an existing problem to give a good little font 7a+.  Things are on the up and I managed to redo a few of the 7b+’s I have done before.

A massive mission moving house last weekend with a little too much heavy lifting left me feeling a little tired on Monday when I returned to Kilnsey.  I felt pretty good, but dropped the route 3 times on the last hard move, Gutted!  Felling sorry for myself I went home empty handed, but psyched knowing it should go next go.

Tuesday took me over to Wigan for some work in the morning.  I had a couple of hours before needing to be home, so stopped at Wilton on the way back.  I quickly brushed Perimeter Walk E7 6b* and Beyond the Perimeter E5 6a**, which were quite dirty.  After a spot of lunch, I flashed both routes.  Awesome solos, and a good consolation for the previous day.

Today I returned to Kilnsey for a quick early hit to try and finish off.  I had Rose with me, so the usual warm up was out.  Instead i opted to bolt to bolt and take advantage of the easier upper section to warm up.  This seemed to work ok, and I sent the route next go, PSYCHED!!!!!

It has been a pretty satisfying start to the season so far.  Hopefully it can keep improving!