Friday 2 November 2012

Winter Blues

Whilst friends up north start their winter season, I am suffering with a serious case of FOMO.  The conditions on the Ben are good, but the cracks are very icy according to Guy and Al (more info on Al's blog climb when your ready).  Thing in the gorms seem to be in good condition too, and a little less icy for now.

To take my mind off this and stop me constantly watch the weather.  I took advantage of a dry morning and strong wind to bag a couple of routes.  With belayer in tow, I finished off the final routes at Worlow Quarry I had not done.  Things still had the odd damp patch, but it was easy to work around or it simply was not an issue.  I warmed up on some of the easy routes and added a direct start to a current HVS finish, before leading Bengal Badger E2 5c and Ammon Wrigley's Mechanical Verse E3 6a*.  Both of these were tricky and felt bold.  I then got stuck into to brushing a very green Two Dead Sheep E5 6a*.  Once I thought I'd brushed the right holds I went for the flash, only to be ejected at the top as I went the wrong way.  After a second look and more brushing I worked out where it went.  It went better next lead, but was a real finger burlfest on small holds.  I thought 6b tech grade would be fairer and F7b overall reflects the climbing.

It was good to get something done before the afternoon rain, but I am still keen to get the axes out.

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