Wednesday, 19 September 2012

Mileage on the Boulders

Horror Arete
Dan, Tony and I went to the Bridestones today for a few classics.  I was hoping to settle the score with Jerry's, but the rain showers put pay to that.  Instead, we fired off a few classics.  Tony had never been here before, and it had been a while for Dan.  We cruised around the Small Smart wall area ticking off the Villan V2, Charlotte Rampling V5, Small and Smart V4, Smarter V4 and Pointless V7.  A short walk back to the Indian's Head where Dan was keen to do Horror Arete V5.  It was not the day for him today, but I was happy to do it again for the first time since 2003 I think.  Tony and Dan rattled off a few classics on the Brother Boulder, before we walked over to Spyhole Pinnacle.  Dan was keen for Cleopatra V5/6.  I showed my way, and Dan swiftly followed.  We then had a mass ascent of Face Ache V3.

High on Horror Arete
 Another shower had stopped play at the Bridies, so as Dan went to work, Tony and I got a coffee.  The rain stopped again, so we went to Woodhouse Scar and sent a good handful of problems there as well.  A good productive day in between the showers.

I forgot my camera, but thanks to Tony there are a couple of pics.

Saturday, 15 September 2012

Early Start and Sore Fingers

Evidence of a good day

After waking early this morning, it seemed a shame to waste the perfect dry cool start.  Despite being a little tired from Thursday, I headed back up to the Bridestones to try and finish off Jerry's Arete armed with a secret weapon, Paul.  Paul has done most of the problems here, so has all the beta I need.  I again made good progress, blowing the top on my best shot, when a pebble I was using as an intermediate snapped.  As my shoulder tired, it was time to move on.

We went over to the Cheeseblock.  Here I climbed the Left Arete V7/8 6c** and made headway on Cheeseblock V9**.  Paul sent both of these, but not with too much ease, as they are tricky little numbers.  A few more problems saw my skin disappear, and Paul finish with a quick dispatch of Tete de Chien V7.  Another I was close to, but too tired and skin too thin.  Next time!!

Thursday, 13 September 2012

A Bit of Bouldering

Elliot sending Mouthful of Crystals
Elliot and I went up to the Bridestones today to see if we could still boulder after a fair few routes lately.  We went into the Bruiser area and warmed up some nice easy problems.  The best tick in this area was Mouth Full of Crystals V5**.  Once graded V7, but a crucial hold has improved over the years.  We moved up to have a bash at Jerry's Arete V9, but I could only make it to within one hold for finishing.  A little gutted, we ticked off the small smart wall.

Local Interest Only
Elliot trying hard
Setting up for the crux pull
A short drive down the road took us to Mytholm Steep Quarry for Elliot to try Local Interest Only V7.  I showed the way, and Elliot made it to within one move, but frustration was getting the better of him on the thin crux finish.

Another short drive to the Hidden Boulder, but we were both bollocked to make the most of it.

Wednesday, 12 September 2012

New for 2013

I am psyched to receive some new Edelrid rock shoes today and looking forward to testing them out  Both sets of shoes will be available for 2013.

The Cyclone is the new radical last shoes for steep performance routes.  It is a slipper with a twist.  There is a rapid lace system, similar to that found on some fell running shoes.  They also sport the new Edelrid E Grip Plus rubber.

Left:  Typhoon lace-up Right: Cyclone
The Typhoon Lace-up is simply a lace up version of the Typhoon.  I have used the Typhoon for 2 years now and can say it is a fantastic all round shoe.  The E Grip rubber has performed as good as any I have used in the past.

For more info. on new Edelrid products, click the lick over on the right.

Monday, 10 September 2012

Bionic Arms at New Mills

Pete and I were hoping to get up to the Ravenstones today, but the weather on the moors was less than perfect this morning.  After driving over Marsden Moor, we ended up continuing on to New Mills Tor.  Neither of us had climbed here before, although I had tried and been rained off before.  I was nice to see perfect dry rock on routes just over 20m.  It is surprising how many starred routes there are here and the 3 star classic look very appealing.
Pete cruising Alcove Crack
I was feeling a little tired after bouldering last night at Mytholm Quarry, where I made a quick second ascent of Local Interest Only V7*.  So, Pete led the way cruising the surprisingly steep, but excellent Alcove Crack HVS 5a***.  He then made short work of  Mather Crack E2 5b**, another good, steep and pumpy number.
Above & Below: Pete on Mather Crack

It was my turn to lead, so I opted for the bouldery and bold Honcho E4 6b*.  Powerful and fingery moves led to a peg and another bouldery section.  Short but action packed.  Both Pete and I wanted to do Bionic's Wall E4 6a***, so Pete stepped up first and smoothly dispatched it.  I was hot on his heels to flash it as well.
Firing up Bionic's Wall

With tired arms, we opted to beat the traffic back.  A good day and still a few routes to return for.

Wednesday, 5 September 2012

Have A Little Hope Second Ascent

As Pete, Dan, Huw and I visited the Pits again today, I had a feeling it would be the last time for a while.  Don't get me wrong, I have enjoyed every route I have climbed there.  However, there is not that much left for me to do, with the exception of a couple of routes that need a good brush.

With this thought in mind, I was keen to make it a good one.  Pete started us off cruising the under graded Pantagruel VS 5a*.  I then soloed Windbreaker E2 5b** and Pipe Spanner E1 5c*, but trailed a rope so Pete could follow (there are no runners).  Meanwhile, Dan and Huw made short work of Plumb Line VS 4c***, Sodom E1 5c** and Gomorrah E1 5b**.

Above & Below: Dan on Gomorrah

It was time to step things up a bit.  So I abseiled down Sagittarius Flake E5 6b*** to see how wet the finishing hold actually were.  Answer, Pretty wet.  However, this is the driest I had seen the route, so opted to go for the flash anyway as the gear was good.  I was very happy when the route was sent with little fuss.  The wet holds at the top were a good size, so I could dyno to the top to avoid a wet foothold.

Tricky last moves on Sagittarius Flake
We all moved into Pit No.1 where Pete and Dan got stuck into Calamity Crack E4 6a***.  Dan made a fine flash ascent, then Pete made a good clean lead straight after.  Huw put in a sterling effort to lead Mimosa E2 5c* which was far steeper and pumpier than it looked.  With my psyche still high I went for the on sight second ascent of Have a Little Hope E5 6b/c*.  This was only first climbed on the 28th August 2012, so this would be a quick repeat.  After following Mimosa to the point where you traverse thinly out across the wall, I chilled out and sussed out where to go.  Once I had worked it out, the thin moves took me boldly to the easy finish up the groove.  Pretty happy with that!!

Easy ground on Have A Little Hope
Pete on Mimosa
Pete then finished off with a swift lead of Mimosa, and I ticked Compo's Advance V4.

Monday, 3 September 2012

Calamity Crack and Pule Hill

Pete and I went back to the Pits to see if the super classic Calamity Crack E4 6a*** was dry.  This is the 4th time I have gone to do it, but wet has stop me even getting on it yet.  Today there was a bit of seepage, but we did think that with so cunning use of so rags we could dry it out.  I abseiled down and dried and brushed the crack the crack, packing it all the way down with rags.  It was left like this for an hours or so whilst we warmed up in the second pit.  When we returned, things had thankfully improved.  With a lot of work I managed to get things dry enough to give it a go.  The rags stayed in, which meant you could not get you hands in.  This was ok, as you don't really need to.  I was pleasantly surprised when I cruised to the top, even managing a shakeout after the crux and chill out a bit.  A fierce route nonetheless!  Pete managed to get up the route with a few falls and a lot of working out, but has a plan for next time now.

Pete enjoying Mega Factor

We moved on to Pule Hill to see somewhere different.  It was very windy, which made it quite nice on a hot day like today. Not the nicest crag to look at, but the climbing we did do was pretty good.  Pete led up Mega Factor HVS 5*, which was quite nice.  I wanted to do War of the Roses E4 6b*, but on starting up it, I realised just how green it was.  It made sense to reverse thrusters, and do something else.  I led Playing the Chords E2 6a*, which had a tricky to get the crux.  Strangely, that was not to bad.

Another good day and another new crag for us.