Friday 20 January 2012

East Face Direct Direct

It was back up into Lochain today with Guy and John to continue the mixed climbing bonanza.  We had hoped to climb Central Grooves VII,7***, but there was already a team starting up it.  We went for our second option of East Face Direct Direct VII,7***, which was outstanding.

John on Pitch 1

Guy making good use of a welcome bridge

Me getting stuck into the final corner

John linked the first 2 pitches to make a good sustained pitch.  Guy then did a awesome job leading up through the bold roof , and then the steep turf to the steep corner of the final pitch.  That meant I had the easy pitch of the day, which was still a steep, sustained corner that was still VI,6/7.  An awesome route.

Other teams were on the usual classic IV's and a Euro team climbed Unicorn.  There has been a lot of snow blown into the corie, so take care if you are heading out.

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