Wednesday 30 November 2011

Burbage West

I met up with Tony and Tina at Burbage today for a spot of bouldering.  We started off at the Bridge area to warm up on a range of easy problems to V4.  The wind was not too strong, but it was pretty chilly.  Next up, we went over to West Burbage.  Neither of us had been here before and there were some good looking problems to go at.

setting up for the crux on Scooter

Enjoying the jug at the top

Tony showing his flexibility on the crux of Scooter
First up was a nice little arete called Scooter V4, which had a brilliant foot to hand rockover to reach the top.  Go West V3 was then flashed by me and should also have been by Tony.  He manned up next go and cruised it.  Whilst Tony recovered from his burst of man power, I tried The Nose V6.  I slipped off the crux first go, but thankfully sent it on the second.  Tony then flashed Crow Man V2 and also the harder left hand version V3.  I got stuck into Jason's Mono Problem V6/7 (depends on the guidebook).  It took me a few goes to stick the finish hold which seemed to be the crux of the problem.  I was really keen to try West Side Story V8/9, which is a super technical wall climb.  The crux is setting your feet to pop to the break, but the all the climbing leading up to this is british 6b, so hard.  I got into the crux a couple of times, but only spending 10-15 minutes on the problem was not enough.  Next visit will be to do this problem and take advantage of this quick session.

Getting involved with West Side Story
About to try and set up for the crux move
Getting tired, we moved back to the Bridge area.  Here Tony cruised a V2 arete and I did the V5 version.  I also managed Mermaid V6, which although only short, packed a punch.  To finish everything off we went and climbed Banana Finger V2/3.  Neither of us had done this for about 10 years, so it was nice to get on it again.
Tony on Banana Finger
A big thanks to Tina for the pics.

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