Friday 7 October 2011

Eastby

High on Whaup Edge


After the downpours this week I was keen to get out and take advantage of the good forecast.  Looking through the guidebook, Eastby seemed like a good option.  South facing, Very quick to dry, a bunch of 3 star classics and I had never been before, Sold!  I meet Elliot on the way, and before long we had racked up a total of 9 routes.
Elliot on Piilar Rib VS 4c***

Firstly we soloed Eastby Buttress VD***, then Pillar Rib VS 4c***.  Elliot put the rope on to lead Pillar Front E2 5b***, which was as excellent as the others so far.  I then led Thumper E4 5c***.  Despite being bold, the climbing was steady and again did not lack in quality.  Elliot then flashed the route as well, giving us both a good haul so far.  Both of us soloed Nose Climb S 4a*** and Index Variation VS 5a** before having a look at Dead Babies E5 6b** which is a short solo.  After falling off the last hard move near the top, we decided to bin it and try some other routes.  I led Thumper Direct E5 6a, which I thought was the better way to do the route and not that much bolder.  Elliot wrapped up the leading for the day with The Padder E1 5b**.  We the both soloed Whaup Edge VS 4b** to finish the day.  All the routes we did today were excellent and I would highly recommend a visit to the crag if you have not been before.

Elliot on Index Variation VS 5a**

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