Friday, 30 July 2010
Not having the time to meet up with Pete and Crofty at Armscliff today, I opted to nip down the road to Cow's Mouth Quarry. This was my first visit, and I was interested in trying Daytona Wall E5 6a *** which is the classic of the crag. I warmed up on King B E1 5c*, which was a little dirty and spooked me enough to think twice about the onsight solo of Daytona. After starting up and retreating I threw a rope down and cleaned and practised the moves. This proved the right decision, as there was a hold through the crux I would not have spotted. After a little break, I topped out on the solo psyched that the walk in was not wasted. I rapped up my session by soloing most of the routes up to E2 in the rockfax guide. With 20 routes under my belt I had a contented walk back to the car.
Thursday, 29 July 2010
Above: EKU 28
I was planning to have a chill out day, but desided against it when Elliott said he was keen for Wilton. We started the day at Wilton 1 where I warmed up on Cheat E3 5b***, an excellent route up a steep slab. Elliott then led Parodox E2 5b**, which has some good steep climbing on good holds. To finish in Wilton 1 I led Lazy Friday E4 5c**. This had some great open slab climbing on good edges in an exciting position. We then nipped over to Wilton 4 some I could get a cheaky solo of EKU 28 E3 5c*. A pleasent little slab route.
Below: EKU 28
To finish the day we went to the Brownstones. It was my first visit, so we did all the classics with my highlights being Digitation V2 and Pigswill V7.
Wednesday, 28 July 2010
The last 2 days have been spent working the final practise expedition for another group from Bolton Lads and Girls Club. This took us again over Great Hill on the first day and back around Anglesarke moor on the second. Despite the bad weather, the group did well, but a little more work is needed befor etheir final exped in September.
Monday, 26 July 2010
I am chilling out today after working a National 3 Peaks Challenge for Maximum Adventure. The clients were from Gala Coral and raising money for Sue Ryder Care. Overall, the weekend was a success. Most people completed the challenge and raised alot of money for a great cause.
Wednesday, 21 July 2010
I've been sports climbing the last 2 days at Kilnsey and Malham to hide from the rain. THis proved to be a choice, as 2 good days have been had. Yesterday I met up with Andy and Mhairi at Kilnsey, who came down from Edinburgh. After trying a few things and finding the tops wet, we settled on Sticky Wicket hoping for a quick tick. Having burnt out a little on the some of the steeper route I tried first, I kept falling off with only 4 moves to go. Mhairi had the same fate as me, but we can count it as good training. Andy made got progress as well, but we wanted to save ourselves for Malham.
Today we met Pete, Elliott, Tony and Tom at Malham. Both Andy and Elliott had not been before, so I suggested Rose Coronary as a good place to start. Both ticked the route quickly and moved onto Sychophants, we is more sustained but not technically as hard. Elliott managed the route on his last shot and Andy narrowly missed out. Mhairi and I had both tried Something Stupid a few weeks ago, but not when we were fresh. After falling off the last moves last time we expected a quick send today. Thankfully this proved so as I clipped the chain on my first lead of the day and Mhairi on her second. Pete cruised Rose Coronary, before turned to Something Stupid as well. He ticked the route after a few shots as well. I the tried to on sight Franenstien, but got gripped putting the 3 draw in. After a quick break, I topped out second go. Mhairi fell off the last move on the flash, before cruising up second go as well. I finished my day off by flashing Sychophants, a great day.
Sunday, 18 July 2010
After a bit of bolt clipping this week at Kilnsey with Dan, I was working with Bolton Lads and Girls Club on another Bronze DofE practise exped. We walked from Belmont over Great Hill, to White Coppice on the first day. Returning to Belmont today walking around the South side of Anglezarke Moor. The small group did really well and should cruise through their final exped.
Sunday, 11 July 2010
I have spent the weekend running a Bronze practise Exped for Bolton Lads and Girls Club. They had quite a challenging first day on Winter Hill and then around Anglesarke Hill. Today was a bit flatter and the nav more straight forward. All did well and are now getting ready for their final in August.
Friday, 9 July 2010
After a quick visit on Wednesday, I went back to Kilnsey for a morning session with Pete today. Having failed to get the quick tick of Slab Culture last visit, I was keen to get it done today. I warmed up by putting the draws in, and suprisingly felt like I could have just done the route then. I forced myself to stop so I wouldn't blow it. Pete then lead Dodger Direct E3 5c, which was excellent. Then I went for it, and without too much fuss clipped the chain. Result. We rounded of the morning with Highway 395, before heading home and for me, to the cinema (husband duties).
The pics were taken on Wednesday by Guido, thanks.
Saturday, 3 July 2010
This is was the final day of the trip, so we went to a crag that is sort of on the way home. Barrow Scout Cove is a small limestone sport crag just outside Carnforth which offers some good short routes, perfect for our half day session. Everyone was a bit tired today, so the 3+-5+ routes were perfect.
Another good week, with great weather. What will next year bring?
Another good week, with great weather. What will next year bring?
Friday, 2 July 2010
We had descided that we would try and do some multi pitching, so headed into the South Lakes and Wallow Barrow. This worked out brilliantly. 10 of the group managed a multi pitch route from VD-VS, whilst the rest were happy to climb some good single pitch routes.
After a long day at the crag we went to Amblside for fish and chips before more climbing at the Chapel Stile boulders. A full on day.
Thursday, 1 July 2010
Today Mhairi and I had the day off as the Watson's massive went canoeing. After a lazy start and alot of coffee we walked up to Malham. To our suprise we had the crag to ourselves all day. After attempting to warm up I realised that climbing everyday for 2 weeks does not set you up well for sport climbing. We got on Something Stupid, which is meant to be easy for the grade. This is simply not true. I thought it would be a good training session, but did better than I thought getting to the last move consistantly and even on my last go of the day. Mhairi was looking fitter than me, but didn't suss the top moves out at first thinking they would be straight forward. After working them out properly it was a little late, and the chance to finish was gone. A great day regardless.